[Knurdler]

I am confused as to when some doubles are takeout or penalty.
For example, partner opens and they overcall 1D (1S) 2D (2S) X or 1S (2C) P (P), 2S (3C) P (P), X.
My partner says these doubles are for takeout, even when we are vulnerable and they are not.

In the first sequence I have agreed his suit and do not have 4 hearts and will have to bid at 3 level.
I can see that the double is unlikely to be penalty but where does partner think we are going?
I have limited my strengths and supported his suit.
Is his double maybe asking for a spade stop?
Is he hoping I will bid 3 clubs or 3 hearts?
My most likely rebid is 3D.

In the second sequence, I have denied 6 points and he has shown a 6 card suit.
Again I will have to bid at 3 level.
Unless I have a 6 card suit, what else can I rebid but 3S?

If his opening bid was 1 club, I can understand that he might be short and strong and seeking a 4 4 fit in another suit but, in the above examples, I cannot see a good result coming from me bidding on.

[DavidKok]

I agree, these are complicated auctions and partner often has enough information to decide where to bid. You can play these doubles any way you prefer, and in particular I think it is quite common to play these as penalty doubles. If you do wish to use them as takeout I think it is more accurate to describe the first one as "a maximum re-raise to 3♦ with some flexibility or willingness to defend", or perhaps (depending on your agreements) "a maximum re-raise to 3♦ looking for a spade stop for 3NT".
The second auction is more confusing, if partner was looking for a different strain why did he not ask at the 2-level, especially as you might have a trap pass of clubs, especially especially as he could pull to 2♠ if you do bid his short(est) suit at the 2-level? For me the 2♠ bid implies a single-suited hand and insufficient extras to sit for a possible penalty double, so partner can't have enough to move again at the 3-level. It is a strange sequence and I'd be uncomfortable with the auction.

[P_Marlowe]

Hi,

#0 can you format the auction a bit better, line breaks make reading auctions simpler.

#1

1D (1S) 2D (2S)
X

This double by opener showes add. strength, it is not a T/O, but it it
is also not based on a trump stack.
If your suit would be hearts, it would be called "Maximal Double", in a seq. like

1H - (2D) - 2H - (3D)
X

X is needed to invite p to bid game with max., 3H instead of X would just be to play
In your seq. the bid showes most likely a bal. hand with 18-19 HCP with a spade trick,
he has 2NT, 3C, as alternative bids av. X instead of 2NT indicates a more unbal. hand.
If you have xxx in spade and a (semi flat) hand you can pass, and lead a trump.


#2

1S (2C) P (P)
2S (3C) P (P)
X

This is a rare seq., opener will have a hand close to a 2C opener, he is showing def. values,
if you are short in spades (at most a single) pass, with xx in spades bid 3S.
Again I would not call this X a T/O, it just showes a hand that wants to compete, and asks you
to decide if 3CX is reasonable, he will quite often have 4 fast tricks, if you have fast ruffing
values, it is easily going -2.

[fuzzyquack]

Both Xs are roughly of DSI type. For the first one, partner shows at least game invitational values and wants to know more. 3♦ by the responder will show the worst possible hand. For the second one, I'm from the school where reopening X and then ♠ shows a big hand. Here partner shows a relatively limited yet competitive hand with extra defense and 6+ ♠. You may pass with some defense.

[akwoo]

You need to learn the following about bridge scoring:

-100 is a better score than -110

Yes, bidding on to the 3 level will frequently result in you being down 1, but that's better than letting them make a contract.

When both sides have at least an 8 card fit (which is most hands), you should almost never let the opponents play in a 2 level contract undoubled. Either they make their contract and you would go down 1 in yours, in which case your -100 is better than -110, or you would make your 3 level contract while they go down in theirs, in which case your +110 is better than the +100 you'd get for setting them.

(Of course it's possible to overdo this, but most newer players bid to go down far too little rather than too much.)