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Responding to NT

#1 User is offline   gilanimjb 

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Posted 2022-August-31, 01:12

I bid with a minimumhand 12-13 HCP partner responded with 2 of anew suit or 1NT, I am in no position to raise; what should I do? Pass or what?
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#2 User is offline   smerriman 

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Posted 2022-August-31, 02:25

You're probably going to have to provide a few more details, including what system you're playing.

If your partner isn't a passed hand, 2 of a new suit is forcing, so you can't pass. What you bid instead - a new suit, rebidding your original suit, or 2NT - varies depending on agreements, with all having multiple meanings.

Likewise, 1NT is forcing for some (if you opened a major) and not forcing for others. If it's forcing you may have to bid a 3 card minor if you have no other suit to bid, while if it isn't forcing then pass is probably fine.
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#3 User is offline   Douglas43 

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Posted 2022-August-31, 22:27

As smerriman says if you'd like to post where you are from gilan, I expect somebody could let you know what's usual in your region. Meantime, BBO has a summary of what the robots play here GIB System Notes (bridgebase.com). You will see a 1NT response is forcing over a Major but not a minor. Two of a suit is forcing (to game).
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#4 User is offline   mw64ahw 

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Posted 2022-September-01, 00:22

Assuming you're not playing a (semi)forcing NT and 1NT is typically 6-9/10 Pass unless you feel a 5 card minor in hand will provide a better contract when the response is 1NT; unless you are playing something like New Minor Forcing.

A 2-level response can be weak, strong or artificial. With the latter two you will need to bid again, with the first option Pass unless a pre-emptive raise is appropriate.

As pointed out above; what are your system agreements
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#5 User is offline   ThomasRush 

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Posted 2022-September-02, 11:25

View Postgilanimjb, on 2022-August-31, 01:12, said:

I bid with a minimum hand 12-13 HCP partner responded with 2 of anew suit or 1NT, I am in no position to raise; what should I do? Pass or what?


One thing you need to think about is this general principle:
"If game is assured, we make a forcing bid or bid game
If no game is possible, we stop in the first playable partscore
If game is possible, we make an invitational bid"

If you're playing Standard American other systems where a 1NT bid by responder is not forcing, the 1NT bid is 6-9 points and is not forcing. Over a minor, it's most often a fairly balanced hand. Add 9 (partner's max) to your 13 HCP and you get to 23, there's no chance for game, so stop in the first playable partscore -- if your hand is also fairly balanced, that will be 1NT. If you have some significant distribution (5-4 of better in the minors with a singleton in a major, or a six-card or longer minor), then you'll bid 2C with the first or rebid your six-card minor with the one-suited hand.

In the case when you open one of a suit and partner makes a non-jump 2/1 bid (say, 1H - 2C), partner has announced a hand of at least 10 points, and may have all the high cards you don't have (his hand is unlimited), so his bid is forcing, you must bid. In addition, if you or partner are just a bit above your minimums, then you're in the 25 combined HCP range, and likely have a game, so you shouldn't want to pass! Make the most natural rebid with your hand, which generally will look like this (in order of most to least important):
- Rebid your six-card or longer major
- support responder's suit with 4 or more cards in it
- bid a new 4-card suit if unbalanced
- rebid 2NT (minimum) or 3NT (15+) with a balanced hand and good stoppers in the unbid suits

It sounds like you're just getting in to bridge. It can be useful to read a book that will help give you the big picture instead of picking up incomplete bits and pieces (and making lots of mistakes in the process). If you want to learn 2/1 I can recommend Max Hardy's "green book", 'Standard Bridge Bidding in the 21st Century". It will give you a solid foundation for modern bidding in what's called a "Two over one game forcing" system that's easy for newer players to master, and quite commonly played in North America. If you're just playing social bridge, you might want to learn Standard American instead (see Audrey Grant's books, for instance, or many others). in England, you might learn Acol, in France SEF, in China, Precision is pretty common for duplicate and tournament players.

You might also find a local bridge club that has lessons for relatively new players. This can be a great way to learn -- and to find a compatible partner who's at a similar skill level to you.

In any case, welcome to bridge; it's such a fascinating game that can give you a lifetime of opportunities to challenge yourself, as well as opportunities to interact with truly interesting people.
He who plants a tree affirms the future
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#6 User is offline   pescetom 

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Posted 2022-September-02, 13:07

If you're new to Bridge, understand that it only works when you and your partner are playing the same system and both know it. If you are playing with robots, that means getting to understand 2/1 as GIB plays it (a bit outdated and weird, but reasonably effective if you can get your head round it). If you are playing with random humans, no chance. As said above, the best option is to head towards a local face to face club.

If you're new to internet, one of the keys is to never ask a question without acknowledging the replies trying to help you :)
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